on San Juan Island Island
Photographer & Kayak Builder Kiliii Yuyan's Joyride
Kiliii Yuyan has made a name for himself photographing some of the most remote – some would say desolate – places on earth. But he’s never really alone. “Having a relationship with nature means that you're part of it. You're not separating yourself from it. You eat of it. You give to it,” he said. “You know the names of the stars, you know the names of the plants, and where to look for them. Then even when you're in a different spot, you know where to look for your friends because they're so familiar.”
Taking the one-hour ferry to get there is a slow trip, so the journey itself becomes part of the joy of just being in this place.
While he often finds himself in far-flung places such as ice-shrouded Greenland or Alaska’s far north, for his close-to-home joyride he set his sights on San Juan Island, a spot an hour and a half away from Seattle that feels like another world. “It’s much more wide open, and life is centered around the outdoors. The pace of life is much slower,” he said, comparing San Juan Island to Seattle. He also noted that even the logistics of getting there can feel like part of the experience. “You're forced to slow down. Taking the one-hour ferry to get there is a slow trip, so the journey itself becomes part of the joy of just being in this place.”
In anticipation of a full day outdoors, the adventurer tied his bright red, hand-crafted sea kayak onto the top of the Toyota RAV4 and pulled into the line of vehicles waiting to board the ferry in Anacortes. He parked the SUV and hopped out to marvel at the grey sky that transformed into a painterly palette of pink, yellow and orange as the sun rose.
Joyride Map
1
Discovery Sea Kayaks
260 Spring Street #1 Friday Harbor, San Juan Island, WA 98250
Just two blocks from the ferry landing, Discovery Sea Kayaks is Kiliii’s top recommendation for San Juan Island visitors looking to join a kayaking tour. The locally owned outfitter specializes in small group trips ranging from a few hours to several days with overnight camping along the island’s coastline. Tour guests paddling in tandem fiberglass kayaks will learn about the surrounding nature and the land’s history while navigating sea routes carefully selected to maximize the chance to see the whales that frequent the offshore waters. Don’t have sea legs? Rent one of the shop’s bikes to explore the island’s many winding roads.
2
Jackson Beach
Washington 98250, United States
Whether you need a scenic put-in for you kayak
or just want to enjoy some top-notch beachcombing, Jackson Beach is an idyllic
spot. Two miles south of the ferry landing, this windswept peninsula feels a world away. Visitors can enjoy amenities such as beach volleyball courts, a trio of picnic sites, barbecue grills and
fire rings, all set against a backdrop of the blustery North Bay. Search for unusual rocks and shells
along the water and pause for a photo in the “witch’s hat” tent, made of large pieces of sun-bleached driftwood.
3
Blue Water Bar and Grill
7 Spring St, Friday Harbor, WA 98250
Take a break from your outdoor explorations and fuel up with locally caught seafood at Blue Water Bar & Grill. The second story dining room and covered porch, decorated with stained glass windows celebrating the island’s rich maritime history, overlook Friday Harbor, so you can watch fishing boats and ferries come and go during your meal. Seafood lovers won’t want to miss littleneck clams steamed in garlic butter and succulent Dungeness crab cakes, while those looking for heartier fare will find their perfect bites in the towering half-pound bison, bacon and cheddar burger.
4
American Camp
4668 Cattle Point Rd., Friday Harbor,
WA 98250
For spectacular coastal views with a side of history, spend some time at American Camp, the southern portion of San Juan Island National Historical Park. Start at the visitor center and strike out for a trek along the hilltop grasslands toward the water. As you follow the primitive trails framed by tall grass blowing in the sea breeze, stop to take in the views and read about the fascinating history of this place. Keep your eyes peeled and you might spot one of the many red foxes that call this prairie home. When you make it to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, marvel at the wide, dark grey beaches dotted with colorful granite pebbles, stacks of driftwood and boulders that provide a bird’s eye view.
5
Maya's Legacy Whale Watching
#14 Cannery Landing 8507, Friday Harbor, WA 98250
Take to the water in search of marine wildlife with Maya's Legacy Whale Watching. The San Juan Islands were shaped by glaciers, volcanoes and fast-flowing fresh waters from the nearby mountains, creating a pristine habitat that’s as strikingly beautiful as it is productive. Get your cameras ready as your custom ecotour boat glides away from Friday Harbor through the Salish Sea. The knowledgeable captain and an on-board marine naturalist communicate with other area boats to share intel on where to spot spectacular animals. Depending on the season, it’s not uncommon to see bald eagles, seals and sea lions, but most guests are most keen to see the majesty of baleen whales, orcas and humpback whales breaching the waves in the wild.
Standing on the open-air bow of the ferry for the ride allowed the chilly, salt-scented sea breeze to invigorate him, so he was ready to hit the ground running when the ferry arrived at Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. He took the RAV4 straight to Discovery Sea Kayaks, just two blocks from the dock. There, he met with one of the outfitter’s expert guides to hear about where kayakers were seeing the most wildlife of late. Kiliii used to regularly guide individuals and small groups in kayaking tours, but since the self-taught photographer has hit the big leagues, with his images appearing in major print publications such as National Geographic and Time, he no longer guides trips. Armed with a few recommendations, he struck out for the next stop.
Discovery Sea Kayaks
Jennings House Cafe
1018 Rosecrans St, San Diego, CA 92106
He headed for Jackson Beach on the rugged North Bay to find a put-in for his kayak. Kiliii built the ultra-light watercraft – just 28 pounds – using traditional methods with a steam-bent bamboo frame, cedar wood and ballistic nylon. With cultural heritage that includes Nanai/Hèzhé (East Asian Indigenous) and Chinese-American roots, keeping indigenous cultural traditions alive and teaching them to others is a core part of his life’s mission. “[I’ve loved] introducing people to the art of kayak building and the whole cycle of taking it from a tree to a boat and giving it a new life. It’s exciting that you're part of that cycle.”
The day was windy and cool, but he came prepared. He donned his wetsuit, bracing himself on the RAV4’s roomy trunk, and unhooked his boat. Picking his way over the beach strewn with gnarly driftwood, Kiliii grabbed his paddle and plunged into the waves. Though this trip into the sea didn’t yield any significant wildlife sightings, Kiliii took joy in simply being on the water.
Jackson Beach
While his hobbies and work have refined the wilderness skills that allow him to live off the land, on this day Blue Water Bar & Grill was the perfect answer to Kiliii’s activity-induced appetite. The Friday Harbor eatery overlooks the docks and serves a wide variety of comfort food and ultra-fresh seafood, along with housemade desserts. The hardwood floors, wide covered porch and colorful stained-glass windows speak to the building’s century-plus history.
Blue Water Bar & Grill
Point Loma Seafoods
2805 Emerson St, San Diego, CA 92106
This part of California produces some of the best large-game fish you can get your hands on. They’re big, beautiful fish that require some know-how to take apart and cook them. I learned how to do all of that on the sportfishing docks here,” he said, pointing to the slips at Sun Harbor Marina. “I remember once seeing someone weigh an 800-pound marlin.”
Properly fueled from a hearty lunch, Kiliii pointed the RAV4 toward American Camp, part of the island’s National Historical Park. The options for exploration at American Camp are endless, but Kiliii was on a mission to trek along the rustic pathways, surrounded by tall grass, toward the crashing waves of the sea. The beach is dotted with vibrant speckled granite pebbles in jet black, blush pink and bright white, as well as driftwood in improbable shapes, tumbled smooth by the water. He took time to look through his camera’s viewfinder, crouching to see things from vantage points most people would never consider. Finding different perspectives is one of the facets of his work that has set him apart as a photographer.
American Camp
Shoreline Park
2200 Shelter Island Dr, San Diego, CA 92106
The final stop on Kiliii’s joy-filled day was a cruise with Maya's Legacy Whale Watching. An experienced captain guided a custom eco boat out of the harbor, noting that it was unlikely to see any humpback whales that evening. Still, within minutes there was a telltale spray in the distance, and Kiliii pulled out his camera outfitted with a long lens. A collective gasp went out from everyone on the boat as a female humpback, identified by the on-board naturalist as Tempest, and her 10-month-old baby made an appearance. The mother and calf breached the surface of the Salish Sea in grand fashion before diving for an underwater feast. That alone was worth the trip, but the rest of the tour added views of a colony of Steller sea lions, a pair of bald eagles, a herd of Sika deer and marbled murrelet, a diminutive seabird.
Happily tired after a full day of rediscovering island haunts he’s frequented for more than 15 years and seeing animals in the wild, Kiliii pulled the Toyota RAV4 into its spot on the ferry. On the trip back to the mainland, familiar constellations began to light up the inky black sky, orienting him and reaffirming his ever-present connection to the land he loves. “If that relationship is deep enough, you take it to other places. Anywhere in the northern hemisphere, you look up and see the same stars, and you know that your friends are still there. No matter how alone you feel, you look at the stars and you’re home,” he said as he headed away from the island that will always be a treasured home-away-from-home.
Maya's Legacy Whale Watching
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Discovery Sea Kayaks
260 Spring Street #1 Friday Harbor, San Juan Island, WA 98250
Just two blocks from the ferry landing, Discovery Sea Kayaks is Kiliii’s top recommendation for San Juan Island visitors looking to join a kayaking tour. The locally owned outfitter specializes in small group trips ranging from a few hours to several days with overnight camping along the island’s coastline. Tour guests paddling in tandem fiberglass kayaks will learn about the surrounding nature and the land’s history while navigating sea routes carefully selected to maximize the chance to see the whales that frequent the offshore waters. Don’t have sea legs? Rent one of the shop’s bikes to explore the island’s many winding roads.
American Camp
4668 Cattle Point Rd., Friday Harbor, WA 98250
For spectacular coastal views with a side of history, spend some time at American Camp, the southern portion of San Juan Island National Historical Park. Start at the visitor center and strike out for a trek along the hilltop grasslands toward the water. As you follow the primitive trails framed by tall grass blowing in the sea breeze, stop to take in the views and read about the fascinating history of this place. Keep your eyes peeled and you might spot one of the many red foxes that call this prairie home. When you make it to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, marvel at the wide, dark grey beaches dotted with colorful granite pebbles, stacks of driftwood and boulders that provide a bird’s eye view.
Blue Water Bar and Grill
7 Spring St, Friday Harbor, WA 98250
Take a break from your outdoor explorations and fuel up with locally caught seafood at Blue Water Bar & Grill. The second story dining room and covered porch, decorated with stained glass windows celebrating the island’s rich maritime history, overlook Friday Harbor, so you can watch fishing boats and ferries come and go during your meal. Seafood lovers won’t want to miss littleneck clams steamed in garlic butter and succulent Dungeness crab cakes, while those looking for heartier fare will find their perfect bites in the towering half-pound bison, bacon and cheddar burger.
Maya's Legacy Whale Watching
#14 Cannery Landing 8507, Friday Harbor, WA 98250
Take to the water in search of marine wildlife with Maya's Legacy Whale Watching. The San Juan Islands were shaped by glaciers, volcanoes and fast-flowing fresh waters from the nearby mountains, creating a pristine habitat that’s as strikingly beautiful as it is productive. Get your cameras ready as your custom ecotour boat glides away from Friday Harbor through the Salish Sea. The knowledgeable captain and an on-board marine naturalist communicate with other area boats to share intel on where to spot spectacular animals. Depending on the season, it’s not uncommon to see bald eagles, seals and sea lions, but most guests are most keen to see the majesty of baleen whales, orcas and humpback whales breaching the waves in the wild.
Jackson Beach
Washington 98250, United States
Whether you need a scenic put-in for your kayak or just want to enjoy some top-notch beachcombing, Jackson Beach is an idyllic spot. Two miles south of the ferry landing, this windswept peninsula feels a world away. Visitors can enjoy amenities such as beach volleyball courts, a trio of picnic sites, barbecue grills and fire rings, all set against a backdrop of the blustery North Bay. Search for unusual rocks and shells along the water and pause for a photo in the “witch’s hat” tent, made of large pieces of sun-bleached driftwood.
Jennings House Cafe
1018 Rosecrans St, San Diego, CA 92106
Jennings House Cafe
1018 Rosecrans St, San Diego, CA 92106
Jennings House Cafe
1018 Rosecrans St, San Diego, CA 92106
Jennings House Cafe
1018 Rosecrans St, San Diego, CA 92106
Jennings House Cafe
1018 Rosecrans St, San Diego, CA 92106
Jennings House Cafe
1018 Rosecrans St, San Diego, CA 92106
Jennings House Cafe
1018 Rosecrans St, San Diego, CA 92106
Jennings House Cafe
1018 Rosecrans St, San Diego, CA 92106
Unfettered & Fresh
San Diego
with Chef Adam Glick
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with Artist & Scientist Tyler Thrasher
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with Woodworker Aleksandra Zee
Nature & Style
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with Woodworker Aleksandra Zee
Coming Soon...
San Juan Islands
with Photographer Kilii Yuyan
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